 Best Sellers | | Home Reliance Controls 31406CRK Pro/Tran 6-Circuit 30 Amp Generator Transfer Switch Kit With Transfer Switch, 10-Foot Power Cord, And Power Inlet Box For Up To 7,500-Watt Generators | |
|  | |  | | | Reliance Controls 31406CRK Pro/Tran 6-Circuit 30 Amp Generator Transfer Switch Kit With Transfer Switch, 10-Foot Power Cord, And Power Inlet Box For Up To 7,500-Watt Generators | | | | | SKU:
100022 | | In Stock | | Availability:
Usually ships in 1 business days | | Only 5 left in stock, order soon! | | | | | | The Reliance Controls Corporation 6-circuit 30 Amp transfer switch is a complete turn-key kit with everything needed to make a professional transfer switch installation in a home or office. It is designed to enable the wiring system of the building to accept the full power of a portable generator, which can run multiple electrical appliances and devices during a power outage. Use this transfer switch for up to 4,500-watt generators equipped with NEMA L14-20 or L14-30 power outlets. The kit includes a 30A 6-circuit prewired loadside reliance transfer switch with wattmeters; 30 Amp outdoor power cord inlet box, a 30 Amp 10-foot generator power cord with L14-30 ends, and an extra L14-20 cord end for smaller generators. This unit is cUL1008 listed and is covered by a 5-year warranty. | | | |
List Price:
| $400.00 | |
Our Price:
| $299.90 | |
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| $100.10 (25%)
| | *Shipping: | $10.98 | |
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| | Product Details | | Product Length: | 5.0 inches | | Product Width: | 13.5 inches | | Product Height: | 17.0 inches | | Product Weight: | 14.5 pounds | | Package Length: | 18.1 inches | | Package Width: | 13.6 inches | | Package Height: | 5.0 inches | | Package Weight: | 14.8 pounds | | Average Customer Rating: |  based on 72 reviews |
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| | Features | 6-circuit, 30 Amp transfer switch for enabling generatorFor use with 7500-watt generator with NEMA L14-20 or L14-30 power outletsIncludes 30 Amp 6-circuit prewired loadside reliance transfer switch with wattmetersIncludes 30 Amp 10-foot generator power cord, extra L14-20 cord endCUL1008 listed; 5-year warranty
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| | Customer Reviews | Average Customer Review: ( 72 customer reviews )
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
94 of 94 found the following review helpful:
 Excellent transfer switch for small to mid-size generators! Sep 11, 2010
By Ashok Aiyar
There are two ways to get power from an emergency generator fed to appliances that need to be run during a power outage.
The first is to run multiple cables from the generator to each appliance, which is cumbersome, requires running cables all over the place - leaving more things to trip on in the dark.
The second is to feed the generator output to the home wiring. I've seen this done by back-feeding the generator 240V/30A output to the home wiring through the dryer socket after switching the main breaker off. Back-feeding is completely illegal, and very unsafe - especially for linesmen working on downed utility lines.
The correct and safe way to connect an emergency generator to home wiring is through a transfer switch. The Reliance Controls 31406/30306 LOAD-SIDE transfer switch was perfect to connect our DuroMax XP4400E 3600 watt generator to our home wiring. The transfer switch can support up to 6 circuits (labeled A-F), two of which are 20 Amp (C & D), and the others are 15 Amp, and generator output of up to 7500 watt. Circuits A-C are on one 120V leg of the 240V generator output, while D-F are on the other. You can probably use generators with higher output, as long as your appliances do not draw MORE than 7500 watts.
The transfer switch comes pre-wired with a single neutral (10 gauge wire), single ground (10 gauge wire), and six pairs of red/black wires (12 gauge) that run to each of the switches/breakers on the transfer switch. The two wires in each set are labeled with the identity of the circuit, i.e. red and black wires labeled "A" connect to circuit A on the transfer panel. Connecting the panel to the main electrical panel is very, very easy - requiring just three steps. Make sure you turn your main breaker off before connecting the transfer switch to the main panel as described below:
a) Remove the cover off the main electrical panel, and feed the transfer switch wires to the main panel through a cut-out on the main panel.
b) Cut the neutral wire (white) to a suitable length and connect it to the neutral bar in the main panel.
c) Connect the ground wire (green) to the ground bar in the main panel.
Now, identify the circuits that you wish to be used with emergency power from the generator, and decide which transfer panel switch to connect each of these circuits to. Keep in mind that a 20 Amp circuit on the main panel can only be connected to a 20 Amp breaker on the transfer panel, but a 15 Amp circuit on the main panel can be connected to either a 20 Amp or 15 Amp breaker on the transfer panel. Once the circuits are identified, you can continue - but make sure that you only work on one circuit at a time:
d) Disconnect the black wire from the desired circuit breaker on your main panel, and connect it to the black wire from the appropriate switch (eg. "A") on the transfer panel using a YELLOW wire connector.
e) Now, connect the red wire from the same switch ("A" in this example) to the main panel breaker that you disconnected in step "d".
Repeat for each of the five other switches on the transfer switch and the five breakers you selected on the main electrical panel.
Put the cover back on the main panel, flip the breakers on the main panel back on, and you're done!
Each switch on the transfer panel has three positions:
1) Generator
2) Off
3) Line
Because this is a load-side transfer switch, when the switch is in line mode, the circuit is connected to power from the utility through the appropriate breaker on the main panel. In the generator position, the circuit is connected to power from the generator, using the appropriate breaker on the transfer panel. In the off position, the circuit is disconnected from both the utility and generator feeds.
The load-side design completely isolates the utility and generator sides of each circuit. When using the generator, you do not have to turn off the main breaker on the main panel, or even the breakers for the circuits fed by the generator. When utility power is restored, the switch can be flipped from the generator to the line position without any danger of a back-feed to the generator, which can cause it to break and potentially explode.
The transfer panel can be directly wired with a plug for a L14-30 outlet from the generator (see the pictures), and comes with wattmeters to ensure that both 120V legs from the 240V generator output are used equally. Circuits C & D on the transfer panel can be used together for 240V/30A output to an appliance if necessary.
The main panel in our house is flush mounted in the garage. Reliance Controls sells a flush mount kit (part # KF06) to flush mount the 31406/30406, and attach it to a stud.
Flush mounting the 31406/30406 in the drywall took me longer than making all the connections in the main panel - but over all the entire process only took 2.5 hours. Following the instructions that come with the transfer switch makes the process very simple for any DIYer.
74 of 75 found the following review helpful:
Reliance Generator Transfer Switch Dec 14, 2007
By Cher and Jim
We recently bought a 5000 watt generator to power essential home appliances--this is if and when a power outage should occur.
To make this convenient, we installed a Reliance transfer switch. (Note that the Amazon description is inaccurate in regard that the Reliance Kit 31406CRK is actually rated at 7500 watts).
We connected the switch to the house wiring right at the circuit box (as required). We found installation of the generator transfer switch to not at all be difficult (only a rudimentary knowledge of electrical circuitry is required).
When the electrical power from the grid is out, we can now keep essential appliances (well pump, refrigerator, and lights) in operation by running them off of the generator. The transfer switch allows connecting 4 house circuits at 120 volts, and 1 house circuit at 240 volts; or 6 house circuits at 120 volts.
As a side note, safe operation of sensitive electronic devices requires a clean power supply. Consequently, when running off of a generator, devices like TV's and computers should additionally be connected to a protected outlet. Ideally, the current should pass through a line power conditioner that has a voltage regulator. (Note that Tripp Lite sells a 600 watt line conditioner with voltage regulator for less than $100). Another good option for more safely operating electronic equipment when the grid is down would be through an DC-to-AC inverter.
All-in-all we find the 5000 watt generator combined with the Reliance transfer switch (the kit) to comprise an effective (yet inexpensive) system that can power most of our essential home appliances.
40 of 42 found the following review helpful:
 Careful Planning --and a few surprises Aug 28, 2010
By ZenReader
"ZenReader"
If your not comfortable working with electrical wiring you should use an electrician. Also, always turn off the main circuit breaker when working with your box.
Installing this switch depends on several factors. First you must have space for the 7" x 7" box next to your electrical panel. They say it can be 18" away but the kit comes with a 90 degree elbow so unless you plan on buying a new connector --using theirs requires a u in the cable. Make it more like 10" away. Also you will need a 3/4 inch hole in your electrical box. All boxes have punch outs but most are 1/2". After you locate the 3/4 punch out, open the panel cover, you'll need space inside for a boat load of wires coming into your box. Make sure your not punching out into something inside the box, like a bunch of wiring, a grounding bar, etc.
Second the labeling on the individual wires for this device is actually on the wire. You will require serious light for this project. So when you turn off the main to the house to start wiring, you better have an extension cord on your generator to plug in to so you can see. We are talking micro letters on the side of wire. C and D, E and F on black and red wires in smudged micro print. What ever you do don't start until you've clearly marked the breakers as well your going to wire. I put a letter on each switch so when the cover was removed I could still tell which ones I was dealing with. Make sure the breaker is controlling what you think it is, and you know any other secondary functions. With careful planning and lots of pre-marking the actual wiring will go relatively fast. Make sure you have 2 spaces on your grounding bar by the way. Mine was stuffed with things. Have lots of large wire connectors since they are needed everywhere.
I installed an external plug in my garage which I reach with a 20' extension cord to the generator. I was going to put the box outside but after seeing the box --it did not look terribly weather worthy to me.
This box does use proprietary breaker switches and is not upgradable. For me this was not a problem since -1) I only use it for emergencies, so I doubt I'll wear it out 2)I wasn't looking to light up the whole house. Over the last 5 years we've had 4 outages of over 3 days. With refrigerator,natural gas furnace (floor fans for those summer outages),52" large screen TV, half a dozen lights, pool cover motor we have been good to go. We're talking less than 2,500 watts.
14 of 14 found the following review helpful:
Nice Product, Easy Install, Great Support Mar 01, 2010
By MDG
I purchased this transfer switch in the Fall from Home Depot (it would have been cheaper getting it through Amazon) along with an Elite Series 6200 generator from Sears. Even though we lost power several times this winter, I was putting off the installation because it involved running 100 feet of wire. Well, we lost power again and that prompted me to finally give it a whirl.
The first thing to note is the great installation videos, available on the DVD that comes with the kit and also online. I actually watched the videos online before I made the purchase, which is what made me feel comfortable about doing this on my own in the first place. I watched the videos several times and made notes for the section of the procedure where I wouldn't have power. These were:
(1) Label switches A, B, C&D, E, F
(2) Turn off main and remove cover.
(3) Tap out knockout and pull wires though (you also need to tighten the clamp ring, not mentioned in the video).
(4) Mount transfer switch (I had prepared the area ahead of time).
(5) Connect white wire to open position in neutral bar (explained in the video).
(6) Connect green wire to grounding (neutral) bar (all this is explained in the video).
(7) For wire A, turn off breaker and remove existing wire, cut red wire A, strip, and connect to breaker. Take black wire A, cut and strip, and attach to wire taken out of circuit with yellow wire nut.
(8) Repeat for the rest of the wires.
(9) Tuck wires in a bit and replace.
This procedure went very smoothly.
Similarly, installing the remote port and wiring it and the transfer switch was easy to do following the instructions. I did have to run out and get wire conduit clamps, but in the end I was feeling quite confident, fired up the generator, and started testing the circuits.
Circuits C&D (my well) and F (my boiler) received power. Unfortunately, circuits A (my fridge) and B and E (misc) were not working. I spent a while trying to troubleshoot this, checking to see if the generator was overloaded, etc., and realized that these circuits were failing even when they were the only ones the generator was powering. The amp meters read zero. It seemed to me that my wiring in the main panel must be OK because the appliances work in LINE mode, and turn off in the OFF setting. Finally, I called customer support.
I can't say enough about the customer support. The technician was patient and knowledgeable, and together we analyzed the problem. Because my well was working on circuits C&D, he said that the generator was probably not the problem, since it was sending power on both "legs" (another thing explained in the video). He had me check the switches by watching the fridge after switching to GEN, and then pushing on the switch (upward, checking for a loose connection). Still, no power. He suggested that it might be the circuit breakers, which could be accessed by removing the black ring and screw, and then two additional screws in the transfer panel at which point the upper assembly can tip forward and out. I told him I would try swapping the good F breaker with the failing A breaker and call him back with the results.
Well, when I had the switch apart and was swapping those circuit breakers (wiggling them free from their connectors) I noticed that one of the connectors on the A switch seemed loose, so I tightened it. Also, one of the two connectors on the B breaker was off, although that might have been caused by my efforts in swapping the two breakers.
Anyway, I button the thing back up and not only does the A circuit work, but all the other circuits as well.
I'm sure that my experience was unusual, but it's good to know that where I had problems they were readily resolved through good technical support. I will definitely recommend this product to my friends, and maybe for a beer I'll even help them install it.
ADD: made it through this October 2011 storm a week without power, and the switch worked like a charm. One other "gotcha" I recall that took a while to troubleshoot was the conduit clamps for the remote port: make sure you don't tighten then too tightly whereby they pierce and short the wire. Not that I was gangbusters tightening them, but that happened to me.
12 of 12 found the following review helpful:
As per manufacturors specs Dec 28, 2007
By Cosy Timberman
I bought the product at 289$ (US).
With shipping it totalled 308 $ (canadian $).
It got home in a few days by UPS with an added unexpected 52$ brokerage fee which wasn't announced before hand in the shipping fees.
It is sturdy and exactly as specified in the advertizing. The accompanying documentation is complete and very well detailed. You should also consult the Utube detailed explanations offered on the manufacturers site. You can download to better view the videos.
The installations documentation and video are complete and I could without help install the switch.
I installed and tested the switch with the ETQ generator (5 250 Watts) which I also bought to power the house in an emergency and electric failure.
Everything works great and according to the marketing. I power the motor of the fan on the oil blow furnace, the refrigerator, two other important electrical circuits and even the water heater. I haven't fully tested heating up the water heater though in a prolonged situation so that I can't vouch for this result. According to the specs it should be ok as it requires 4 000 Watts for this appliance.
Great product.
See all 72 customer reviews on Amazon.com
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