 Best Sellers | | Home Reliance Controls 31410CRK Pro/Tran 10-Circuit 30 Amp Generator Transfer Switch Kit With Transfer Switch, 10-Foot Power Cord, And Power Inlet Box For Up To 7,500-Watt Generators | |
|  | |  | | | Reliance Controls 31410CRK Pro/Tran 10-Circuit 30 Amp Generator Transfer Switch Kit With Transfer Switch, 10-Foot Power Cord, And Power Inlet Box For Up To 7,500-Watt Generators | | | | | SKU:
100301 | | In Stock | | Availability:
Usually ships in 1-2 business days | | | | | | The Reliance Controls Corporation 10-circuit 30 Amp transfer switch kit is a complete turn-key kit with everything needed to make a professional transfer switch installation in a home or office. It is designed to enable the wiring system of the building to accept the full power of a portable generator, which can run multiple electrical appliances and devices during a power outage. Use this transfer switch for up to 7500-watt generators equipped with NEMA L14-20 or L14-30 power outlets. The kit includes a 30 Amp 6-circuit prewired loadside reliance transfer switch with wattmeters; 30 Amp outdoor power cord inlet box, a 30 Amp 10-foot generator power cord with L14-30 ends, and an extra L14-20 cord end for smaller generators. This unit is cUL1008 listed and is covered by a 5-year warranty. | | | |
List Price:
| $500.00 | |
Our Price:
| $499.99 | |
You Save:
| $0.01 ()
| | *Shipping: | $19.60 | |
*Shipping:
| |
| | |
|
| | Product Details | | Product Length: | 5.0 inches | | Product Width: | 13.5 inches | | Product Height: | 17.0 inches | | Product Weight: | 18.1 pounds | | Package Length: | 18.2 inches | | Package Width: | 13.7 inches | | Package Height: | 4.9 inches | | Package Weight: | 18.2 pounds | | Average Customer Rating: |  based on 55 reviews |
| |
| | Features | 10-circuit, 30 Amp transfer switch for enabling generatorFor use with 7500-watt generator with NEMA L14-20 or L14-30 power outletsIncludes 30 Amp 10-circuit prewired loadside reliance transfer switch with wattmetersIncludes 30 Amp 10-foot generator power cord, extra L14-20 cord endCUL1008 listed; 5-year warranty
| |
| | Customer Reviews | Average Customer Review: ( 55 customer reviews )
Write an online review and share your thoughts with other customers.
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
38 of 39 found the following review helpful:
 Reliance or GenTran transfer switch? Mar 11, 2011
By Mark P
Well, I needed one of these and checked out both this and GenTran products as a KIT.
My conclusions:
If you're a not so experienced DIY (and even if you are), I think I'd get the Reliance. If you have more experience, you *MIGHT* want the Gentran if your really careful.
Here is why:
The Reliance unit has all 10 circuits PRE-WIRED and clearly marked, fool proof. No need to add circuit wires for more circuits. The Gentran comes with 6 prewired clearly marked circuits, BUT if you want 10, you need to add your own wiring. Believe me, people could mess this up.
In my reading, the majority of folks use or wish they had 10 circuits available from go, GET a 10 circuit model unless you are only doing a really small cabin or something.
Now the GenTran KIT has an advantage in that you can "customize" the circuit breaker selections to suit your needs. For example, you can choose how many extra 15 or 20 amp circuits you want in any combination. And if you really needed to run a 30 amp load, you could put a standard 30 amp breaker in this and run it (I would not do the 30 Amp due to load balancing issues but it could be done).
You can't do this with the Reliance KIT as it has its own special breakers in it. People claim that having standard breakers is the only way to go. I say this is nice, but it's likely over rated in this situation. First, how often do breakers go bad? It does happen, but it's not likely to happen on a Gen unit that you use only on occasion in most cases. Can the Reliance brekers be changed? I don't know but I would think so but you would have to order them I guess to have on hand.
Reliance DOES offer a non-KIT unit that uses standard breakers if you are up for that.
Now the main reason I'd go Reliance and NOT GenTran here is because of a safety concern I have noted.
The GenTran install instructions show that you are ABONDONING the breakers that will go into the transfer panel. Well, this my friends could kill somebody!!!!
Here's how: The circuits you move to the transfer panel are abandoned in the main panel. This means that to shut them off, you now need to shut them off from the transfer panel. If people LEAVE THE ABONDONED breakers in the main panel, even a qualified electrician might overlook the transfer panel, go to work on a circuit labeled in the main panel by shutting off that abandoned breaker, only to find that the circuit is still live maybe after their heart already stopped!
Yes, really safe people would shut off the main breaker, but many people could miss this little tid bit and if you're not in the habit of testing wires even after you popped a breaker, you could kill yourself with a zap of 120!
You MUST know that the transfer circuits are now only controlled from the Transfer panel breaker and NOT the main panel!!!
NOT GOOD! The reliance kit does not have this problem. All breakers are still controlled from the MAIN panel.
Next, the GenTran "operation" is not the easiest thing to remember. First shut off all breakers in the transfer panel, then start & plug in generator, then turn on main, then turn on circuits, Oh, if you had some trans circuits off while on Gen, you need to turn those back on when utility power come back, after shutting off the Transfer main...err what? I'm confused.
Reliance is goof-proof. Start your generator, plug in, switch on your circuits from LINE to GEN, DONE. Utility power comes back, switch them back. YOU CAN'T mess it up.
For me, Reliance wins for these reasons, it's GOOF PROOF. And, if I want standard breakers, you can get a reliance unit that takes them. (but not as a kit, so it will cost more for all items)
Cost wise, the GenTran is like $30 cheaper, not worth the possible safty problem.
Thanks,
MP
28 of 28 found the following review helpful:
Excellent product. Feb 01, 2010
By J. S. Edwards
This is an excellent product. It was easy to install and easy to use. I chose this product because some of the competing products have more wiring involved and it is possible to backfeed house power into your generator. With this switch panel, that unhappy outcome is impossible. I strongly recomend this product.
19 of 19 found the following review helpful:
Excellent product Nov 08, 2009
By Construction guy
After having borrowed a generator last year and "put up" with power outages in the years before I decided to purchase a generator this year. Rather than run cords I chose to install this transfer switch and power inlet box. Reliance Controls has made a great product. It's very rugged and well-made. The manual was easy to follow and wiring didn't take long at all. (Reliance Controls has an easy to understand, clear installation video on its website too.) All of the necessary items are packaged in the box right down to wire nuts for the breakers and inlet box connection. (Of course though you need to buy wire to run to the inlet box from the transfer switch.) Actual operation is very easy and safe and the built-in watt meters are helpful to double-check load balancing. This is a terrific product and very user-friendly. I highly recommend it.
17 of 18 found the following review helpful:
Good Produce, fast delivery Jul 30, 2009
By ken
I purchassed and installed a Reliance Controls 10 circuit 30amp generator switch with power cord and power inlet box model 31410CRK. The product was exactly as advertised, and I had no problems installing it, even though I never did house wireing before, but I do have some knowlege of basic electronics.
The only sugestion I have for Reliance is to include basic testing instructions. For example, an ohm meter could be used to check each of the 10 circuit switches, and insure connection of the right wires. I noticed the wire labeled "I" looked like a sidways "H".
The flexible metal conduit had to be shortened. If you need to shorten it, it's not very difficult. Just unravel the metal at the end, and bend back and forth to break of some of the material. It looks better to have the conduit flat against the mounting board rather than making it loop out in order to place the transfer switch closer to your main circuit breaker box.
I recomend the 10 circuit model. If you get the 6 circuit, and if you have a refrigerator, furnace fan, sump pump and freezer, these appliances are probbably on seperate lines, leaving only 2 of the 6 circuits available for lighting and TVs etc.
I did not purchass a generator yet. Just waiting for a good deal.
If you are only working with 120 volt circuits, you can test the unit without a generator. If you are not sure about what you are doing, I would get expert advise before doing this. All the transfer switches should be in the down position (power coming from utility lines).
Before connecting the wiring that you purchassed separatly to the outdoor inlet box, connect the Black and Red wires to a short lenght of 10 gage wire with a wire nut. Insert the short wire into the hot side of a heavy duty extension cord, and plug the cord into an electric outlet. Make sure you connect to the Hot wire. A volt meter should show 110 volts between the hot wire and the ground.
The above steps supply 110 volts from the utility lines to both sides of the transfer switch unit. If the outlet is controlled by the transwitch, you will not be able to check that one switch, so try to find an outlet that isn't conntected to the transfer switch.
Now, when you move one of the transfer circuit switches to the Up or Generator position, the circuit connected to that switch will receive its power from the extension cord. Only move one transfer swith to the generator position at a time, since the power is being supplyd by the utility lines thu one of your main circuit breakers. As each switch is moved up and then down again, you should only lose power on the protected branch ciruit momentarily when the switch is in the middle position.
Testing 220 volt lines would be more difficult, consult an eletrician or rent a generator to test the whole system.
10 of 10 found the following review helpful:
Easy to install and easy to use. Nov 28, 2010
By Lemon Twist
After a couple of years with several day long, or longer, power outages we decided to install a backup system.
We bought the transfer switch capable of supporting 10 circuits from Amazon. Delivery took about a week and the unit was well packed with no damage.
The unit is solid and heavy duty.
Installation was very easy and took a total of 4 hours, start to finish. It took longer to run the cable to the outside connector plug than anything else.
After carefully mapping my current circuit breakers so that I knew exactly which breaker affected which lights, outlets, and etc. it was time to decide which circuits we would backup. Since the transfer switch supports 240 volt connections and our generator is capable of 10KW peak we were able to divide and balance the load across the two 120 volt legs based on normal and peak power requirements. It took awhile to get the balance figured, then we made a map identifing each circuit breaker and each backup circuit. The drawing is now covered with plastic and on the wall next to the main panel. We also wrote out detailed instructions on how to activate the system and how to transfer back to commercial power. Pretty easy but when the power is out you need to make sure you don't make simple mistakes, like not grounding the generator for example.
I know most of what I have said doesn't really address the product but it is useful information for anyone contemplating such an installation.
The transfer switches (there are 10) are rugged clearly marked and each has its own circuit breaker. Each circuit is clearly identified by a letter A through I. Using a tape machine I added labels showing which circuit each lettered transfer switch connected.
A very nice feature is the power meter for each leg of the 240 circuit. If you have an imbalance you will see it and be able to turn switches off to see the effect. In the end, if you didn't get the balance correct the first time, you can drop circuits to keep running and then decide how to move circuits later.
The wires were all clearly marked and were stranded copper so they were easy to route. As I wired each circuit the following procedure was followed:
1: Main power off.
2: Selected circuit off.
3: Red wire to circuit breaker.
4: Black or Red hot wire from breaker connects to the black wire from the transfer circuit with a wire nut.
5: Main power on.
6: Checked that power was still off at selected circuits in the house. Lots of running around ....
7: Selected breaker to on.
8: Checked that power was returned to the selected circuits in the house.
9: Repeat steps for remaining circuits.
I could have simply wired all the circuits once the main power was removed but by doing it this way I double checked my initial mapping of the house. In my case everything was perfect. If I had made a mistake in my map it would have been more difficult to fix the problem later.
After grounding the generator I connected the umbilitcal to the 110/240 connection on the side of the house and to the generator.
I started the generator and let it run for 5 minutes to get warmed up.
Inside the house I started a process where I transfered a cirucit, observed the power meter, and checked that I had power in the house. Everything worked perfectly and neither power meter on the tansfer box was showing high use. Waited for the furnace to kick on and still not too much power use. On the same leg of the 240 volt circuit I operated the garage door and did not overload the side. Now I knew both of these cirucits could operate simultaneously. I repeated several scenarios using the Televisions, computers, microware, and even the coffee pot. Everything worked fine. I knew that I could not power up everything or I would overload the generator and likely kick the main breaker. We don't operate the coffe pot at the same time we are using the microware, for example. We don't leave lights on in areas of the house we are not using. We do have several low power night lights in the house.
All in all, a great system that works very well providing you have properly balanced the load and not tried to power up too may things that require a lot of power. Be especially careful of those things that require a higher peak power at startup. These are usually things like a furnace with a motor that needs some grunt power in the beginning but less once it is running. These can be pretty high, 2KW or so, and if they start at the same time they will trip the generators breaker. Be conservative and you will weather a storm without commercial power with ease.
This box comes in several sizes and you should get one that matches the capabilities of your generator.
By the way, I did the work myself but had over-the-shoulder help from a friend that is a licensed electrician.
My signature says Lemon Twist in Manheim Germany.... I came back from Germany in March so all of this was done in the USA.
See all 55 customer reviews on Amazon.com
| |
* Estimated shipping rate for US 48 states. Final rate calculated at checkout. | |
|
| |  | |  |
|
Recently Viewed | You may also like ... |
